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- {{Short description|Return flow below nearshore water waves.}} {{About|undertow beneath water waves||Undertow (disambiguation)}} ...12 KB (1,710 words) - 16:55, 1 December 2024
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- ...n|Dimensionless number indicating the nonlinearity of long surface gravity waves on a fluid layer.}} ...rst=F | last=Ursell | title=The long-wave paradox in the theory of gravity waves | journal=Proceedings of the Cambridge Philosophical Society | pages=685–69 ...4 KB (518 words) - 05:10, 21 November 2024
- ...ta–Satsuma equation''' is a mathematical model of interactions of two long waves with different dispersion relations, expressed as a set of three coupled [[ ...atsuma, Junkichi, N-Soliton Solutions of Model Equations for Shallow Water Waves, Journal of the Physical Society of Japan, Volume 40, Issue 2, pp. 611 (197 ...2 KB (292 words) - 23:27, 27 January 2025
- ...by gravity (see [[Gravity wave]]), where the [[phase velocity]] of shallow water gravity wave (''c'') can be noted as and the [[group velocity]] (''c''<sub>g</sub>) of shallow water gravity wave can be noted as ...3 KB (520 words) - 19:52, 20 February 2025
- {{short description|Non-local model for non-linear dispersive waves}} ...as a model to study [[wave breaking|breaking]] of non-linear dispersive [[water wave]]s in 1967.<ref name="Whitham_1967">{{harvtxt|Whitham|1967}}</ref> Wav ...7 KB (861 words) - 06:49, 25 October 2024
- {{For|kinematic waves in traffic flow|Traffic flow}} ...ves, avalanches, debris flows, mud flows, flash floods, etc., '''kinematic waves''' are important mathematical tools to understand the basic features of the ...3 KB (500 words) - 09:13, 29 November 2024
- {{Short description|Effect by which surface waves entering shallower water change in wave height}} ...owever, the group velocity first increases by 20% with respect to its deep-water value (of ''c''<sub>g</sub> = {{sfrac|1|2}}''c''<sub>0</sub>  ...12 KB (1,869 words) - 09:42, 28 July 2024
- {{short description|Very long, low frequency waves found near the equator}} ...waves''', often called planetary waves, are very long, low frequency water waves found near the equator and are derived using the equatorial beta plane appr ...5 KB (775 words) - 19:19, 31 January 2025
- | [[File:Oseberg A - Waves I.jpg|300px]] | [[File:Oseberg A - Waves II.jpg|300px]] ...4 KB (560 words) - 16:38, 20 May 2022
- ...ref> Thus, for example, if a [[longitudinal wave]] from a [[fluid]] (e.g., water or air) strikes a solid (e.g., steel plate), it is usually refracted and re ...st=Joseph L. |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/40073975 |title=Ultrasonic waves in solid media |date=1999 |publisher=Cambridge University Press |isbn=0-521 ...5 KB (688 words) - 23:17, 18 March 2024
- ...erable limitations (only valid for permeable breakwaters and steep (storm) waves). That is why the Dutch government agency [[Rijkswaterstaat]] commissioned ...s the density of the stone and ''ρ<sub>w</sub>'' is the density of the water ...4 KB (624 words) - 01:54, 22 July 2024
- ...scription|The increase in mean water level due to the presence of breaking waves}} ...e setdown''' is a wave-induced decrease of the mean water level before the waves break (during the shoaling process). For short, the whole phenomenon is oft ...9 KB (1,310 words) - 08:11, 17 February 2024
- ...rdized [[statistic]] to denote the characteristic height of the [[random]] waves in a ''[[sea state]]'', including [[wind wave|wind sea]] and [[swell (ocean ...plit the measured [[time series]] of the surface elevation into individual waves. Commonly, an individual wave is denoted as the [[time interval]] between t ...4 KB (581 words) - 21:39, 23 December 2022
- {{Short description|Pattern of movement across water}} ...n (1887) [https://books.google.com/books?id=Q84-AQAAMAAJ&pg=PA409 "On ship waves,"] ''Institution of Mechanical Engineers, Proceedings'', '''38''' : 409–34 ...11 KB (1,747 words) - 16:53, 15 July 2023
- ...d who has made many other valuable contributions to our knowledge of water waves. ...height ''H''<sub>b</sub> at the edge of the [[surf zone]]. Or, for random waves, the [[significant wave height]] ''H''<sub>s</sub> at a certain location. ...7 KB (987 words) - 05:02, 21 November 2024
- ...first4=K. |last5=Janssen |first5=P. |title=Dynamics and modelling of ocean waves |date=1996 |publisher=Cambridge University Press |isbn=9780511628955 |pages ...ich can give rise to an energy flux between the air and the water. For the waves to grow, a higher pressure on the windward side of the wave, in comparison ...12 KB (1,871 words) - 23:17, 15 March 2024
- ...[[Coriolis effect]] and wave-induced [[Stokes drift]]. This force acts on water independently of the [[wind stress]].<ref name="PoltonLewisBelcher">{{citat ...direction (i.e. in the direction parallel to the [[wave crest]]s). In deep water the Stokes drift velocity is <math>\boldsymbol{u}_S=\boldsymbol{c}\,(ka)^2\ ...4 KB (606 words) - 22:43, 28 July 2024
- {{Short description|Return flow below nearshore water waves.}} {{About|undertow beneath water waves||Undertow (disambiguation)}} ...12 KB (1,710 words) - 16:55, 1 December 2024
- ...}</ref><ref>{{citation | title = Resonant interactions among surface water waves | first1 = J.L. | last1 = Hammack | first2 = D.M. | last2 = Henderson | aut * {{citation | title = Resonant interactions between waves. The case of discrete oscillations | first = F.P. | last = Bretherton | aut ...5 KB (629 words) - 02:15, 24 April 2024
- ...or the fact that solutions for finite fluid depth are lacking – trochoidal waves are of limited use for engineering applications. ...listic-looking [[ocean wave]]s can be done by use of so-called '''Gerstner waves'''. This is a multi-component and multi-directional extension of the tradit ...13 KB (2,054 words) - 21:00, 4 February 2025
- ...ation of groups of waves in dispersive media, with application to waves on water produced by a travelling disturbance|journal=Proceedings of the Royal Socie *{{cite journal|year=1918|title=Periodic irrotational waves of finite height. Proceedings of the Royal Society of London. Series A, Con ...8 KB (1,014 words) - 13:35, 27 October 2024